Lately, I have been seeing a lot of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-but there’s one element that I don’t need to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you probably know that many finishing methods for the legholes and waistline embrace elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, and woven elastic webbing even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, but none of my ready-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and generally they don’t within the waist either. This is the kind of underwear I like greatest.
So, elastic webbing where does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, but I wish to make my very own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you how to swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
Tips on how to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Be certain your fabric meets the stretch necessities said in the sample you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re utilizing a Seamwork pattern, knitted elastic webbing it features a stretch information that will help you see if the fabric you need to use has enough stretch in it. Here are some Seamwork patterns you need to use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic selection, particularly if you need to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are perfect for biker-short type underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work properly with a knit band as a substitute of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can also make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew collectively all the fundamental pieces. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that can assist you decide how long your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I will have to do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favourite, but we bought this!
You want some math as a result of in the event you cut the knit band the same size as the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You need to search out the perfect quantity of destructive ease on your knit band to remain in place and fit securely-however comfortably-to your body.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to comply with a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the overall circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a very good place to begin! Depending in your fabric’s restoration, you could must do some testing to get the fitting circumference. You may always baste your band to your underwear to examine the match first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24. For those who have any kind of inquiries with regards to where by along with the way to utilize knitted elastic webbing (notes.io), you are able to e mail us at our own webpage. 75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I lower them 2 inches broad, but you can make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. When you lower your bands too slender, they might need some extra bulk on the seam allowance. In the event you cut them too extensive, you may have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the two quick ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one aspect. Helpful trace: If you’re utilizing a serger, use just one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With improper sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides together, pin the knit band evenly along the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You can see this in action in this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same process on your other leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to ensure your online experiences are fun and fulfilling.
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